Some recent commenters have questioned why I recommend wines that only get 2 or 2.5 stars, so I’d like to take the opportunity to explain how I evaluate wines here. I don’t give bad ratings. If I don’t like a particular wine, I don’t recommend it. Each wine is included here because I believe it offers good value for the price and will appeal to a significant number of readers.
The stars are my personal, very subjective reflection of my excitement for a wine, either because of its sheer quality or for the quality it offers for its price. The explanations we published in October 2020 when I last revised the scale are at the bottom.
I also include environmental certifications from the label because many consumers care about how their wines are produced, as well as vegan certifications for readers who want wines that are not clarified with animal byproducts. I give the alcohol level as stated on the label because many consumers don’t like riper, more alcoholic wines or may prefer to look for wines with lower alcohol.
Other commenters have questioned why I include the weight in grams of the empty bottle. Bottle weight has become an important issue as wineries try to reduce their carbon footprint -- while also laboring under a dated assumption that we consumers prefer heavy bottles. We’ve seen significant progress recently as wineries announce moves to lighten up. I intend to keep listing bottle weights to raise awareness of this issue among readers and keep the pressure on wineries. To more accurately reflect the weights I’ve been seeing since listing this information, I’m now going to list bottles weighing between 500 and 625 grams as “Average” (down from 700). Anything above 625 grams will be “Heavy,” and below 500 will remain “Light.” Recently announced targets for some of the wine industry are 460 grams or even 420 grams, and I’ve seen a few bottles under 400 grams. Let’s applaud this progress and keep it going.
GREAT VALUE
DeLoach Vineyards Heritage Reserve Chardonnay 2022
(3 stars)
California, $13
Here’s a great everyday-style wine for when you just want a good chardonnay with some peach and apricot fruit character and a hint of sweetness, but nothing to contemplate or hijack your dinner conversation with oenogeeky discourse. It’s straightforward, simple and delicious. Alcohol by volume: 13.5 percent. Bottle weight: 540 grams (Average).
Distributed locally by Breakthru Beverage Group.
GREAT VALUE
Roc de l’Abbaye Sauvignon Blanc Val de Loire 2022
(3.5 stars)
Loire Valley, France, $22
This intense, focused sauvignon blanc comes from Florian Mollet, whose family has tended the Roc de l’Abbaye winery in Sancerre for generations. This comes from vineyards in Touraine, on soils of clay, limestone and flint (the prized silex of the Loire Valley). Don’t expect exotic fruit flavors here, beyond a lovely hint of pear and apricot; the main impression is mineral — as if the wine were bearing a message from the Earth itself. Vegan. ABV: 12.5 percent. BW: 585 grams (Average).
Imported by Demeine Estates. Distributed locally by Republic National Distributing Co.
Laurent Martray “Les Feuillées” Côte de Brouilly 2019
(3 stars)
Beaujolais, France, $30
Sporting a new label for the vintage, this favorite entices with scents of blackberry, cocoa and baking spice, as well as a hint of pipe tobacco in the background. Like most cru Beaujolais, it shows its class without flaunting it. It’s a “gourmand” wine, meaning it shows best with food — think roast or braised meats. ABV: 13 percent. BW: 530 grams (Average).
Imported and distributed locally by Elite Wines.
Prices are approximate. For availability, check Wine.com, Wine-searcher.com and the websites and social media feeds of the wineries, importers, distributors, and your favorite local wine store. You can also ask your local retailer to order wines from the distributors listed. Have wine questions for Dave McIntyre? Send them to Food@washpost.com.
Legend
★ Good: The wine delivers what it promises at a fair price. If it says chardonnay, it tastes like chardonnay.
★★ Excellent: A wine with character and added interest. May elevate your eyebrows at the first sip.
★★★ Extraordinary: An exciting wine that stands out from others in its class. Fist-pumping, table-thumping good.
★★★★ Sublime: Otherworldly. May have you thinking, “So this is what they were talking about.”